TIPS ON MOVING WITH PETS

by: Kyle Thomas Haley

If you’re a pet owner and are planning to move to a new home, remember that moving can be even more stressful for your animals than it is for you. But there are several things you can do to make it easier on your dog or cat.

Start your packing well ahead of time; it’s not only easier on you, but on your pets as well. During the time leading up to your move, try to keep your pets’ eating and exercise schedules as normal as possible. Give them the same amount of attention and affection as you always do.

Things to do before your move:

• Get copies of certificates, medical, and immunization records from your veterinarian.

• Purchase identification tags with your new address.

• If you’re planning to travel by air, schedule your flights early and try to book a direct flight – this will be much easier on your pet. You need to find out what the airline’s regulations are for transporting your pet. You will also need to find out what kind of crate will be necessary to contain your dog or cat.

• If you’re driving and the trip will take more than one day, be sure and check ahead and reserve motels that will accept pets.

• Contact the state to which you’re moving and find out the regulations regarding animals. Some states require an entry permit for pets.

• If your new home is nearby it’s a good idea to take your pets for a visit and let them become familiar with the neighborhood and the new sights and smells. This is especially true of dogs. Of course, keep the dog on a leash and the cat in a carrier.

When Moving Day Finally Arrives . . .

All the confusion is certain to upset your pet so the best solution is to have a friend or family member keep Fido or Fluffy while the loading is being done. If that isn’t an option, keep your pet in a small room, perhaps a bathroom, along with sufficient food, water (litter box for Fluffy) and some favorite toys. Attach a “Do Not Enter” sign on the door so the pet is secure and won’t be accidentally set free.

You’re on Your Way . . .

The packing and loading are all done and now it’s time to head for your new home. There are things you’ll want to make sure are packed for your pet. These include:

• The new identification tags.

• Medications and veterinarian records.

• Recent pictures of your pet in case it becomes lost.

• Litter box or scoop and plastic bags.

• Paper towels in case there are accidents.

• Leashes.

• Toys and treats.

• Food and water bowls.

• Can opener and cans that can be resealed.

• Regular food and water from the old house (enough for several days). Different water can upset an animal’s digestive tract so it’s a good idea to provide water from the old house for the first few days after moving. This would not be a good time to try a new brand of food either!

Your New Home ~ At Last . . .

When you finally arrive at your new home, let your pet explore with your supervision. Then place Fido or Fluffy in a small room with a crate or bed (and, of course a litter box for Fluffy) while the unloading and unpacking are taking place. Make sure to put some favorite toys in there and perhaps an old sweatshirt, or something that smells familiar.

It’s very important that you not let your pet outside alone without a lead or tie for the first few days. Cats usually require about a week but dogs adapt quicker. You don’t want your pet to wander away and get lost.

Your pet may be insecure and more prone to misbehaving during the first few days in a new environment. Try to be patient and not punish the initial misbehavior, instead, try to find ways to reduce stress. Extra TLC can go a long way toward making pets more comfortable. It’s also a good idea to follow the usual feeding and exercise schedule.

In closing, there are just a couple of things you should be aware of to keep the moving experience as trouble-free as possible:

• If you intend to fly, be aware that puppies and kittens less than 8 weeks old will not be transported.

• And finally, never move a sick animal ~ it could well make his condition worse and endanger his health.

Enjoy your new home!

ANOTHER KIND OF HORSE BRAND: BUSINESS BRANDING IN EQUINE MARKETING

by: I. M. Andrews

It's winter time, the breed inspection season has come and gone in North America, and along with it branding season.

Branding season for horses--NOT for horse BUSINESSES.

If you have any business or marketing background, or have done any reading on the subject, you have heard of branding in the business context. Let's take a look at what that actually is.

Brands on horses and other livestock in the Old West showed ownership. There was some level of claiming recognition for owning a quality animal, but primarily the point was to keep livestock from being stolen. Branding helped to legally retrieve stolen livestock.

In Europe, brands on horses were not an indication of personal ownership, but rather indicated the horses' affiliations with one of the regional registries.

That idea, which is behind modern-day branding of horses in European-affiliated breeds and some of the other breeds in North America is closer to the concept of business branding. In fact, it IS business branding for the individual horse breed.

So What is Branding Exactly?

It isn't a string of freeze-branded symbols or a set of moose antlers or other breed symbol. Those are likened to a business logo or trademark, but those things aren't brands in the business sense, either.

A brand on a horse signifies everything the breed represents: the quality, history, performance record, origin, and so on. A horse that carries a breed's brand mark ostensibly possesses all of the attributes of the breed, and is theoretically capable of performing to the standard established by that breed association. For example, when you see a horse with a Holsteiner brand (assuming you have familiarity with the mark), you recognize the horse as a Holsteiner. You immediately know a little bit about the horse's lineage, background, and the kinds of activities it might be good at.

That is why some registries require a physical inspection and approval of the individual horse before giving it a brand--the branded horse is a representative of the breed's identity, a walking advertisement. It makes sense for the breed organization to want to control the quality of those advertisements.

Likewise, a brand is the embodiment of all the information connected with a product or service. A brand typically includes a name, logo, and other visual elements and encompasses the set of expectations associated with a product or service which typicaly arise in the minds of people. (reference: wikipedia.org).

Logos and such--like brand marks--are a shorthand symbol for the brand. Those marks are meaningless until the brand is built.

Build Your Brand from the Ground Up:

As Chevy Chase's character, Ty Webb, says in Caddyshack, "Be the ball." Live the brand. Branding is everything you and your business represents. You establish a brand through the quality of your horses, your competitive record, the standard of service you provide to your clients, the manner of your business dealings, trust, your reputation. A brand is a business' identity. Consistency in all of these elements builds a brand.

Paradoxically, I am on the fence about whether to brand horses or not. Maybe just the bunny-hugger in my personality coming out, but I think branding hurts the animal.

For your horse business, definitely, branding shouldn't hurt. It might take a little mental stretching to grasp the concept, but the actual establishment and building of your brand need not be painful.

But one thing is certain: There is no end to the branding season for businesses!

SIMPLE STRATEGIES TO STOP DOG BARKING

by: Winfred Jennings

Barking is normal for a dog, and a little bit here and there is ok. However a dog barking all day long can be annoying even to the most patient dog lover.

Here are some simple ways to help stop excessive barking:

* Exercise your dog often. Tired dogs spend their time sleeping rather than barking.

* Give your dog some good chew toys. Chewing is a good stress reliever and is a great way to occupy your dog’s time. Your dog will have a hard time barking if his mouth is full.

* Try to mask outdoor noises. This can be as simple as turning on the stereo or TV for your dog. You might even consider investing in a white noise machine.

* Acknowledge your dog’s barking. Sometimes your dog is simply trying to tell you something, and if you acknowledge him, he will often stop barking.

* Teach your dog the “Quiet” command. If your dog keeps on barking after you acknowledge him, say “Quiet” sternly without yelling. If he stops barking, praise him.

* Make a noise shaker. Throw a few coins in an empty water bottle or soda can and tape it shut. If your dog is not responding to your quiet command, shake the can. Dogs really don’t like that sound and will often stop when they hear it.

* Give him a squirt. Give your dog a stern “No,” and give him a quick squirt with a water bottle. Remember to aim for your dog’s body rather than his face.

* Try a trainer collar like the Gentle Leader. This collar is similar to the halters worn by horses. When your dog starts barking, pulling the lead will gently press your dog’s mouth closed for the next few seconds. The nice part is that you don’t have to scold your dog. All you have to do is pull when he barks.

* Know when to switch strategies. If you don’t see any improvement with a particular strategy, try another one.

SHOULD YOU SLEEP WITH YOUR DOG?

by: Hope Saidel

There’s a moment of truth for every dog owner. It’s the end of the evening and you’re ready to go to bed. Rover is sitting and looking at you with those big brown eyes, head cocked to the side, cuter than any animal has a right to be. Do you let Bowser sleep with you?

There’s no right or wrong answer to this question. The real question is – is letting Fifi sleep in your bed right for you? And truthful answers to a few questions will let you reach the right decision for you and your dog.

First: Pixie is an adorable, 15-pound Mastiff puppy. But will there even be room for both of you in bed when she’s a full-grown, 120 pound dog? Her legs don’t bend the way yours do – picture her, as an adult, taking the space of a five-foot square. Possibly not the best choice for a sleeping companion in your twin bed.

Next: Does Bruiser snore? Or shed? Or drool? Much as you may love him, there are times when he’s been rolling in something that you really may not want on your sheets. And giving a dog a bath every night before bed-time isn’t really a viable evening ritual.

Third: A dog’s normal body temperature is somewhere around 102 degrees Fahrenheit. Which can be warm, wonderful and cozy on a cold winter night – especially when you’re trying to keep that thermostat low and the energy bills under control. It actually sounds delightfully snuggly this time of year. But picture those same 102 degrees in August. Will you really be able to look at that shaggy face and say “Not tonight, dear, it’s too hot out!” Muttly isn’t going to understand and may think he’s done something wrong.

There are trainers out there who claim that dogs should never sleep with you, that it undermines your authority as the leader of your family “pack.” The most important concepts in training are patience, decisiveness, and consistency. Decide what the rules are for your dog. Stick to them. As long as Sparky knows what’s expected, she’s happy.

Yes, Trinket would probably prefer to sleep in bed with you. He may even decide that your pillow is the best place to be, with the blanket pulled up to his chin. But he doesn’t get to decide that. You do. If it’s what you want, it’s what you and Duke should do. If it’s not, teach your dog where his bed is and reward him for staying in it. Be strong. The more work you put into training Hooch now, the longer you’ll be able to enjoy your well-trained dog.

BEWARE OF THE HOLIDAY GOODIES THAT ARE NOT SO GREAT FOR YOUR PET'S HEALTH

by: Robin Perdue

The holidays mean plenty of fatty treats for most people. Who can resist …... candy, cookies, fudge, egg nog, pumpkin pie, not to mention the home cooked meals and family togetherness? It’s part of the spirit of the season. While we may not be able to resist the urge to overindulge ourselves, we can and should resist the urge to overindulge our pets. Let’s face it, we all sneak a little table treat to our pets every now and then. It’s hard to say no to those wanting eyes. And, the excited look on their little face when they realize they are getting a treat is priceless. But, tread lightly down this path!!

For one, animals have a very short span of contentment. Their contented state lasts long enough for them to swallow the last bite. Then, those wanting eyes are right back in your face, watching your every move… expecting… hoping… guilting … If you head down this path, be prepared to deal with it every single time you sit down for dinner.

But, the annoyance of a begging animal is just a minor problem. The bigger problem is that table scraps can lead to indigestion, upset tummies, vomiting and diarrhea. Pets have a very sensitive system. Upsetting the balance of that system can cause them all kinds of health problems. Table scraps can also be high in fat and sugar, which can lead to weight problems, heart problems, and diabetes.

So, What are the Best Types of Treats?

Treats that contain wholesome, natural ingredients are a great alternative for keeping your pets healthy and happy. Consider treats that work to improve the overall health of your pets. There are many out there that promote dental health, assist with achy joints, are high in antioxidants, or vitamin enriched. Some great ones to try are HealthyPetNet’s Gourmet Dental Treats and Antioxidant Health Bars

CHOOSING A LABRADOODLE BREEDER

by: Edie MacKenzie

“Temperament and Soundness are the two KEY elements in a good family companion; they must not be sacrificed for any reason.”

Quoted from the LAA Breed Standards http://www.laa.org.au/breed_standard.htm

I want to stress the importance of not choosing a Labradoodle puppy based on price. You want to buy your puppy from a credible and experienced breeder, and that usually comes with a heftier cost. However, if you’re looking for an allergy-friendly, top-quality Labradoodle, the price should be at the bottom of your priority list. You know you’ve found a good breeder if their mission is to better the breed with healthy, well-tempered dogs. The best way you can do this is - research, research, and more research. It’s a long and tedious process, but it’s worth every minute when you find the breeder who can provide you with the right Labradoodle.

Finding the right breeder is especially critical with Labradoodles, because there are so many backyard breeders claiming to be Doodle breeders. They’re obviously in the business solely to make money and aren’t concerned with the betterment of the breed. Don’t settle for this type of “breeder!” Also, steer far away from buying a puppy from a pet store.

Yes, I know they look cute and needy in the window, and in your heart you may want to buy it, but a majority of these puppies were raised in puppy mills and they’re most likely not allergy-friendly and very probably ill and/or genetically flawed.

Puppy mills typically consist of dozens of pups confined in crates contaminated with pests and feces. These dogs receive little if any veterinary care. They don’t get any exercise, playtime, or companionship. They often endure mistreatment and malnutrition. Then, these dogs reproduce with each other, resulting in severe genetic defects and health problems. If you purchase a puppy from a pet store, you’re supporting this horrific practice.

The reputable Labradoodle breeder strives to advance the quality of the breed with each new litter. This breeder matches parents based on certain criteria to produce a healthy litter. These criteria include desirable physical and behavioral characteristics and with each litter, the quality of the breeding stock improves. I recommend you visit as many breeders as possible before selecting a puppy. Don’t be tempted to buy a Labradoodle puppy on your first visit - it’s easy to get caught up in the excitement of seeing all the precious pups!

Visiting the Labradoodle breeders gives you an opportunity to meet the puppy’s siblings and the parents—giving you an idea of the physical and behavioral characteristics. Pay close attention to the parents to see if they’re healthy and well behaved. Also, ask what kind of temperament they have and what types of health issues they’ve had as well. Take notice of how the puppies interact with the breeder. It’s a good sign if they’re playful and outgoing. If they’re shy are fearful, there is a reason why!

BEHAVIOR TRAINING FOR YOUR STUBBORN CAT

by: J. Brian Johnson

Learning cat behaviors before you start training them would be an good idea for anyone that is going to train a cat's behavior.

A cat can jump and land on its feet as this is a natural instinct for a cat. When a kitten is born the cushion in its paws are not developed with the cushion to land on its feet. It takes about 7 weeks to develop the cushion in a kittens paw for landing. A cats bone structure is unique to other animals as the bones are flexible, cats have no collar bone, which enables them to twist and bend their bones. A cat can jump a great distance without sustaining any injuries.

www.RustyCats.com

With this behavior, you will want to teach the cat to jump hoops, sticks, or off the scratching tree. Letting a cat jump from extreme heights will cause injury to the cat.

Cats have a unique hearing ability; they are able to hear high tones and pitches, like opening a door or a can of food. Cats also have unique smelling abilities. The reason a cat will scratch or urinate on the floor , rub its self up against a door or furniture, is the cat is leaving their scent in those areas so they will be able to come back and know they were there, in other words marking its territory. In addition, if another cat or animal comes along in the area a cat will know this. Cats can also smell with their mouths. There is a gland called Jacobson's organ, it is a sac in the cats upper mouth filled with blood, as the cat smells the scent and the slightly opens their mouth and upper lip, this allows the scent to be carried in and to the sac, which it will carry the scent goes to the cat brain. This mostly happen to male cats when a female has urinated.

Knowing these natural instincts and behaviors can give you some insight training your cat. With behavior training you will want to make sure that you allow your cat the ability in some way to play out its natural instincts and behaviors.

When training a cat for behaviors there are some things you need to take into consideration. Aggression, especially in older cats, can be caused from illness or other cats in the home. You may want to contact your vet to have your cat checked out to see if it's alright at this time to train a cat.

Depression and anxiety can play another part in trying to train your cat. If a cat is separated by a recent owner the cat can become depressed. Stress is not uncommon for a cat. If you think that your cat has depression or high anxiety, this would be a good time to take him to the vet. Vets can talk to you about some of the things that may be causing this. There are also medications that a vet can prescribe for the cat to help with depression and anxiety.

Never hit a cat for punishment, he will learn to fear you, and fearing will be a behavior you will not be able to control or retrain. When they do something that is not right, ignore the problem unless you catch them in the act, you can associate a noise with that behavior you don't like, or in a stern voice tell them “NO”.

If a behavior is becoming impossible, you may have to resort to the baby proof home, all containers that have food in them have a lid on it. Make sure that the counters are clean and have nothing that a cat would want to play with.

You will want to start training your cat or kitten almost immediately after you get them. This will stop many unwanted behaviors and hopefully not let any new bad behaviors to start.

Healthy cats need healthy relationships with their owners. Good Luck!